The Era of the Overfilled Face Is Officially Over
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Kathleen HouWed, April 29, 2026 at 6:52 PM UTC
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Looking Human Is in AgainMatteo Scarpellini
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A creepy thing to ask a chatbot is: âHow to look human?â AI will give helpful tips like ânot forgetting to breathe.â It also informs you, the very person with eyes reading this story, that your eyeballs are always located in the middle of the head and that the width of the nose is typically equal to the distance between them (feel free to look at your own reflection to check).
You know how to be human. But how do you continue to look human, in this age of terrifyingly adaptive AI, Photoshop, and filters? The past few years in beauty have been characterized by human intervention in service of an un-human lookâoverly pillowy lips, puffy faces, complexions buffed to a robot-like shininess, sharply contoured cheeks, the bland sameness of no-makeup makeup, and jutting butts. Now, judging by evidence from runway beauty trends and doctorsâ offices, we are back in an era of looking merely mortal.
Part of looking more human comes from what we can call the Great Undoing, seen in the bodies and faces of people across America. You can read stories like â25 Famous People Who Kissed Their Filler Goodbye,â and follow along with content creators as they get their Brazilian butt lifts and other fillers taken out. âI used to have 10 to 15 percent reversals. Now itâs up to 20 to 30 percent. Many people are reverting back and trying to make their faces more normalized,â says Daniel Gould, MD, a plastic surgeon in Beverly Hills, who saw the trend starting around five years ago across all kinds of aesthetic procedures. When New York City plastic surgeon Melissa Doft, MD, walks me through her morning schedule on a Friday, there are already two revision cases. Darren Smith, MD, a plastic surgeon in New York City, has seen a 30 percent uptick in breast reductions over the past 18 months.
The words that people are using to describe their desires for their faces go beyond just ânatural.â âI want to look like my authentic selfâ is what Beverly Hills facial plastic surgeon Babak Azizzadeh, MD, has heard. âThey say that they donât like it being so obvious anymore,â Smith adds, with his office observing a trend in BBL deflations. âThey donât want their butt to be the first thing people notice.â âI have a lot of patients who are like, âOkay, I feel like Iâve gone too far; bring me back,ââ Doft says. Sometimes, the realization that theyâve crossed into uncanny valley territory comes from others. âTheir faces have been so distorted that their friends and family are asking them, âWhat happened?ââ Gould says. Azizzadeh weighs in with a vivid comparison: âItâs like getting that bad tattoo when youâre drunk in the middle of the night and regretting it in the morning. Itâs like, âOh my God, what do I need to do about this?ââ
The regret can be multifold, because an unnatural appearance no longer just communicates poor taste or an overdose of procedures, but also invites value judgments about a personâs worldview. The so-called âMar-a-Lago faceâ was coined to describe the artificial appearances of Trumpâs inner circle. When the former secretary of Homeland Security was fired, Salon.com proclaimed, âEven Mar-a-Lago Face Couldnât Save Kristi Noemâ; Karoline Leavittâs seeming puncture wounds from what appear to be fresh lip injections, seen in Vanity Fairâs December 2025 issue, implied there was nothing natural about âmachine-gun lips.â At an awards show in Paris this winter, the infrequently seen Jim Carrey accepted an Honorary CĂ©sar Award. But his appearance was so smooth that an online conspiracy theory began speculating that Carrey himself did not attend, but an impostor. (Someone on Reddit joked of the response, âIf I was just a little more insane I too could be tricked into believing everyone who has bad filler is a clone who eats babies.â) His publicist later issued a statement confirming that Carrey was there. âAnytime thereâs something in the news or on social media that portrays one of these more exaggerated aesthetics, thereâs definitely backlash, and people want to make sure they donât fall into that category,â Smith says.
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Collina Strada fall 2026 beauty had makeup simulating an upper lip latte smudge.launchmetrics.com/spotlight
During the fall 2026 fashion month shows, the desire to look more human was interpreted in an artful way, with makeup artists creating looks that purposefully didnât look too perfect. This is a hard left from the âclean girlâ makeup aesthetic of no-makeup makeup and pulled-back hair (not unlike Alicia Vikanderâs beauty look as a robot in Ex Machina), popularized on TikTok by celebrities like Hailey Bieber. Collina Strada had models walking down the runway with makeup-simulated latte foam smears above their upper lip. Makeup artist Romy Soleimani created a âsleepy girlâ makeup look using mauve-and-brown eyebrow pencil, to celebrate the bleariness that comes from just waking up.
âSeeing people move away from something that felt very uniform and controlled into something more colorful and individual feels exciting to me. It reminds me why I fell in love with makeup in the first place,â says YSL Beauty makeup artist Sam Visser. In Paris, Visser created a series of high-impact looks for the Gucci show, with gray smoky eyes blown out to the brows and red, glossy lips (makeup a robot could never do or wear). Zoom in on pictures of models like Amelia Gray and Emily Ratajkowski walking the show, and youâll notice small flecks of eye shadow fallout under the eye or a slight smudge. When I ask Visser if the effect was intentional, he says, âWhen I do makeup, I am not chasing perfection so much as I am chasing an idea. Imperfections naturally happen during the process, and I tend to leave them in. If mascara gets a little clumpy or an edge becomes slightly smudged, I often like that. There is a realness to those moments that makes the makeup feel alive instead of overly polished. This approach was faster and a little looser. The focus was on the feeling of the look rather than absolute perfection, which creates that sense that the person simply exists in the makeup rather than having been constructed by it.â
Gucciâs fall 2026 show featured makeup a robot could never do.Victor Virgile - Getty Images
As humans, we have to decide how much perfection we want to chase, so that we arenât subsumed by it. Although many people are opting for reversals, doctors say that most patients donât want to return to their baseline. âThey want to go back to, say, 30 or 40 percent of what they have now,â Azizzadeh reports. He points to a 2004 study that asked subjects to appraise 48 side profile and forward-facing photos of women and found that the image judged most attractive was a composite of everyoneâs features. Unlike what models or even male âlooksmaxxersâ would suggest, being âaverageâ (and, the study points out, not even being symmetrical) is actually the most pleasing. âWhen people start having features that are outside the natural average of human beings, some people may think youâre exotic and you may become a model. But once you start having features that are way past the appearance of a humanoid, then you start looking eerie,â Azizzadeh says.
AI itself has even started to course-correct. Some platforms are producing images with pores and acne that make the skin look more real, Gould says. Regardless, there is one thing that AI or doctors or makeup artists canât take away: the inner essence that makes you, you. âPeople seem more interested in personality again,â Visser says. âThey want to see the person underneath the image. In a world where so much is edited, generated, or hyper-controlled, a face that feels alive and expressive becomes much more interesting.â What a time to beâand lookâalive.
A version of this story appears in the May 2026 issue of ELLE.
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